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  • Writer's pictureWill

Fly Tying SBS: Waldy's Pink Dink

We haven't been filming many fly tying videos recently, with our time taken up finishing the fly shop. However, that doesn't mean we haven't been tying flies. We have never been busier at the vice, tying flies to stock our new fly bins, the layouts of which will be released soon.

Our flies are unique, tailored to the southern Quintana Roo fishery, and proven fish catchers. For this reason, we are going to share a few step-by-steps on how to tie these flies over the coming

weeks. Don't tie? Not to worry, we have both the flies and materials to tie them available at the fly store.

So, on to the fly. 'Waldy's Pink Dink' was designed for fishing over a sandy bottom, beaches or flats, primarily for Permit or Bonefish. The pink adds a mottling effect you see on live shrimps, only more vibrant. The brighter colour also helps fish hone in on the fly, especially when mudding. We tie these in sizes 4 and 6, with medium or small lead eyes depending on the depth we are fishing. You could also tie these lighter if required.

Check out the SBS below and let us know what you think!

Step 1).

Quick and straightforward , a real guide fly. Materials are:

-Ahrex saltwater streamer #4

-Yellow painted lead eyes (M)

-Sand craft fur

-Micro crystal flash

-EP shrimp dub brush (sand)

-Chicone's crusher legs (sand)

-Centipede legs M (tan)

-Pink Sharpie

-EP crab/shrimp eyes M

-Orange thread

-Mono thread

-Mason hard mono 20lbs

Step 2).

- Start by laying a base of the mono thread. Tie in your lead eyes, close to the eye of the hook, leaving 3-5mm for the head.

- Lay down multiple X wraps and glue to secure.

- Finish by covering the base, working the thread to the barb.

Step 3).

- Cut a half pencil diameter of sand craft fur. Remove the base fluff and mid-length fibres, creating a gentle taper.

- Offer up the craft fur to the hook and tie in. The tail should be around a hook shank to a shank and a half length.

- Follow by tieing in 2 strands of crystal flash on either side of the craft fur.

Step 4).

- Finish the rear portion of the fly by adding two Centipede legs on either side of the craft fur. Also, tie in a single Chicone crusher leg on either side, below the Centipede legs.

- Once complete, add an EP eye on either side, making sure the eyes are even, protruding around 5-10mm from the barb.

- Make sure to splay the eyes and secure with X wraps. Glue the eyes to secure and move on to the next step.

Step 5).

- Tie in the EP shrimp dub brush and advance the thread forward to halfway down the shank. Wrap the brush in touching turns up the hook shank, towards the halfway point.

- Once at the halfway point, tie in a set of Chicone crusher legs and advance the thread to behind the eye. Continue wrapping the brush in touching turns towards the eye.

- Capture in another set of legs before the hook eye and then continue advancing the brush. Once you reach the lead eyes, tie in the brush and remove it.

- Jump the thread in front of the lead eyes and whip finish. Add glue to secure.

Step 6).

- Take the orange thread and build up the head of the fly. Add your single strand of Mason hard mono to form the weed guard.

- Secure your weed guard and create a neat taper to the head. Once happy, whip finsh and glue to secure.

Step 8).

- Brush out the dubbing brush and trim the underside. Doing this aids in helping the fly sink a little quicker. It also stabilises the fly in descent, ensuring it falls straight and rides properly on the strip.

- Finally, add a few dots of Sharpie to the body, and three pink bars to the tail. Let the Sharpie dry and remove from the vice.

That's it; the fly is done. All that's left is to tie it on and send it downrange on your next flats trip.

Tight Lines,


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